Entering the Grand Palais for the Chanel show this morning and seeing the floor covered in black pebbles and smoking rocks, people immediately began guessing the source of Karl Lagerfeld’s inspired set. The Icelandic volcanic? A meteor strike and the end of fashion as we know it? Personally Spain Soccer Jersey, I favored a spa in Hawaii. Temperatures have finally warmed up here.
In the end, after seeing a dozen or so male and female models file down the winding, misty boardwalk, I settled upon “Lord of the Rings.” It seemed good imagery for Mr. Lagerfeld’s dark palette (as in, black and gray with ivory) brightened occasionally with deep red, a silvery gray or watery blue.
But the clothes were resolutely contemporary, more masculine than froufrou Chanel. For day, he essentially offered soft, wide-leg trousers (worn inside flat lace-up boots with attached rib-knit cuffs) or short skirts layered over dark stretch jeans. Jackets have a double look—a cropped forest green boucle jacket, say, over a lightweight charcoal blazer. The stretch jeans (or leggings, if you like) appeared in his January couture show as well. He also had great tunics, as capes and long pullovers. Capped shoulders, tunics, and some high necklines vaguely suggested a medieval influence.
The mood of the collection felt a bit downbeat, not so conspicuously luxury, though it was loaded with pieces. And you sensed Mr. Lagerfeld wanting to give Chanel a younger, street attitude. Not so sure about the spree of black, semi-transparent jumpsuits for evening.
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