2012年6月15日星期五

Letter From Copenhagen - Feeding Frenzy

At the MAD Food Camp Symposium.Photographs by Aleksander Thuesen At the MAD Food Camp Symposium. Visitors take in the offerings. Visitors take in the offerings.

That hundreds of Danish families braved ankle-deep mud to consider hay speaks to the effect Noma’s ideas about food are beginning to have on Copenhagen at large. While Noma alumni have gone on to open many of the city’s top restaurants, transforming the restaurant landscape, few locals can actually afford to eat in them. But now the gospel of New Nordic Cuisine is reaching a wider audience. “Today I saw ramson onions in the supermarket, which was never available nor known before Noma,” said the local food blogger Trine Lai. And you certainly wouldn’t have found yogurt mixed with indigenous sea-buckthorn berries in grocery stores a few years ago. Or, for that matter, wine produced in Denmark; Anders Selmer, the former wine director at Noma, has begun making whites under the Arwen label on the island of Lilleo. There are now even public food reforms in the works, among them Claus Meyer’s Food of Life program to research the role of New Nordic Cuisine in childhood health and development.

For two rainy days last week, some 250 chefs, scientists, foragers and farmers gathered beneath a blue and red circus tent in Copenhagen’s Harbor for the first annual MAD Food Camp Symposium. Entitled “Planting Thoughts,” the symposium was organized by Claus Meyer and Rene Redzepi, the founders of the current “world’s best restaurant,” Noma, along with the newly formed Food Organisation of Denmark (FOOD). The mission was to ask the big questions about the role of chefs in society, touching on issues of urban farming, food microbiology and social responsibility. At the podium was a parade of acclaimed chefs, among them Inaki Aizpitarte, David Chang, Andoni Aduriz and Alex Atala.

But it was the scientists, farmers and foragers who seemed to be the biggest draw. Matt Allison freewebmakemoneyonline.weebly.com/url, an urban farmer, came from South Africa to rally not around chefs but around food producers like the French botanist and forager Francois Couplan, who proclaimed the nutritional benefit of cattails. “It’s great to see chefs respecting small-scale, biodynamic farmers like myself and elevating our occupation and instilling a sense of pride that has been stripped from us over the years by mechanization freewebmakemoneyonline.weebly.com/url,” Allison said.

Outside the symposium tent, in the areas open to the public, intermittent downpours put a damper on the festivities. But still, roughly 1,000 weekend passes were sold to visitors who wandered through the MAD food bazaar, where farmers exhibited a polychrome selection of local produce freewebmakemoneyonline.weebly.com/url, from beets to carrots to Jerusalem artichokes. Vinegar makers offered up spoonfuls of their piquant productions. An entire section of the bazaar was devoted to exploring the aromas and textures of around 20 types of hay.

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